The Hat Affair Loves... Audrey Hepburn

Audrey Hepburn is a legendary style icon. Her relationship with designer Givenchy created some of the most memorable moments on screen. The opening of 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' springs to mind with Audrey in her LBD and diamonds.

It may surprise you when I say that the costumes I love the most are in 'Paris When it Sizzles'. They were timeless with there classic lines and effortless luxury.

This season the 60's have had a come back and elements of Givenchy's design's echo throughout many collections. Why not take a leaf out of Audrey's book and give some of this seasons looks a try...

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 'Paris When it Sizzles'
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Roksanda Ilincic sessler colour-block wool-crepe dress

Available at NET-A-PORTER.COM

Dolce & Gabbana cutout floral brocade dress
Available at NET-A-PORTER.COM

Audrey in Givenchy Suit in openning of 'Paris When it Sizzles'
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Simone Rocha wafer-mesh dress
Available at NET-A-PORTER.COM

Audrey Hepburn in Pink Givenchy dress in 'Paris When it Sizzles'
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Jason Wu leather and suede pleated dress

Available at NET-A-PORTER

Audrey Hepburn in White Givenchy dress in 'Paris When it Sizzles'
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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
flo stretch-sateen jersey dress
Available at NET-A-PORTER.COM

Audrey Hepburn images from various sources (see links)

All other images from NET-A-PORTER.COM

Dreaming of couture...

Charlotte Smith and journalist Meri Fatin

Fashion Talks was a dream come true. Ever since I read Charlotte's book 'Dreaming of Dior', I wanted to know more about her amazing vintage clothing collection and the woman behind it all...

When Charlotte Smith inherited a collection of vintage clothing from her Pennsylvanian Quaker godmother, Doris Darnell, it changed her whole world. "I have a small shop in the Blue Mountains. When the crates arrived they blocked out the sun. It took three months to unpack everything", Charlotte.

What makes the Darnell Collection so unique, is that every garment has a story, a memory of who wore it, where they wore it, who made it, etc, creating a rich and vibrant social history of how women have changed over time.

Detail of Beryl Jents dress

Beryl Jents, Australia, circa late 1960's, silk

Everything in the collection has been donated, accept for pieces bought at auction to add to the story of an exhibition. It is now the largest private vintage clothing collection in Australia and boasts over 5,500 pieces. The collection has pieces from the Victorian era right up to the present day.

It includes three rare dresses dating from the early 1900's by Lucile. There are only 90 left in exsitence. Lucile designer, Lady Duff Gordon was a survivor of The Titanic and was the first designer to have fashion parades with manequins (live models). By 1922 she employed 300 people, with an in house doctor, dentist, a dining room with meals provided and paid maternity leave.

Vionnet Dress 1937

A vintage gem on display on the night was a dress by Vionnet. In the 1920's Vionnet pioneered the bias cut, revolutionising fashion by allowing the fabric to fall on the body to create shape, instead of creating the shape with garment its self. Vionnet was concerned about other designers copying her designs. She kept a photographic record of every garment, using mirrors to allow a camera to caputure all sides at once.
 

The Darnell Collection also includes pieces by Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Pucci, Prada and a whole lot more... I could have sat there all night listening to Charlotte talk about the collection. I got the feeling that what she shared just scratched the surface of the many varied stories that this collection has to offer.

Dior dress 2005 and Chanel suit circa 1960's, wool

For more information on the Darnell Collection

www.darnellcollection.com

The innocence of youth...

At 6 being subjected to wearing a bin bag, masquerading as a Christmas tree.

At age 7 please note the denim on denim look and the tasteful sun hat (taken at the elephant enclosure at Perth Zoo).

At school dressed as a cow girl, not sure why!

In my 1st Communion dress made by my mum.

My 9th Birthday a 'Witches and Wizards' party, this was before Harry Potter!

At 12 back stage in a High School production of 'Mame' ( Don't worry, it is a fake cigarette!).

I recently went to a 'Fresh Prince of Bel Air' party. It made me think about what I was wearing in the 90's. I couldn't remember, well I was in primary school for most of it! So I dug up some old photo's and to my surprise discovered I was a bit of a poser then too! So for shits and giggles I've decided to show a few of my memorable fashion moments from the 90's.

Turn the page...2011

You would probably remember me blogging about 'Hats: An Anthology' at the beginning of 2010. Well if you were one of the unlucky ones that missed out (like myself), you still have a chance to see this wonderful collection in print if not in person.

I was very excited to receive an autographed copy for Christmas. It is a beautiful collection of hats of all shapes and sizes. My only disappointment was the lack of a photograph of the fabled Schiaparelli Shoe Hat. Sadly there was only the illustration that has featured in many other fashion books. Hopefully in the second edition we may get a glimpse of this strange and wonderful creation.

It is available to purchase from the V&A and the Queensland Art Gallery online bookstores.

www.vandashop.com
www.australianartbooks.com.au/books

Illustrate me...

While I was house sitting in August I took these photos of the costume illustrations that adorn my uncles walls they are so beautifully crafted. There are 12 illustrations altogether. x

One mighty hat...

In Renaissance France women's hats were quite large and extravagantly detailed. Queen Marie Antoinette had a hat in the shape of a ship complete with sails, rigging and miniature cannons.

Most of her hats were designed by the Milliner/Dressmaker Rose Bertin. Mme Bertin had the power to influence Parisian fashion, creating the 'must haves' of each season. It was undoubtedly partly due to this and her high prices that lead to the downfall of the French Monarchy. Mme Bertin is one of the few Milliners/Dressmakers who is remembered by name from that time.

(This information was obtained from various sources, the primary source was Colin McDowell, Hats; Status, style & Glamour 1992, Thames & Hudson ltd, London).

(Illustrated by Lucy)

Through the looking glass...

These vintage magazines are filled with all you need to know about being a woman in 1932 and 1942. In ten years it is remarkable to note the difference in the advertising, the use of colour and the quality of the paper. The war time receipies are also very err, different! There is also an ad in the 1942 issue for the recently released Walt Disney Film 'Bambi', who knew Bambi was that old.

The short stories are also quite interesting one title reads in the 1942 issue "Until the Day Break: She would do Anything to save the Land, and the Paris she loved"

Singing in the rain!

In celebration of the season I thought that 'Singin' in the rain' staring Gene Kelly, Donald O'Connor and Debbie Reynolds was appropriate. This is a film that makes you smile. Set in the 1920's during the golden age of the silver screen it has costumes dripping with diamonds, oppulent sets and dazzling song and dance numbers. It is one of my all time favourite films and is also great on stage. If you watch nothing else just watch Gene Kelly dancing in the rain, it's the point in the film when his character is happy falling in love! If only that happened in real life! (sigh)

So as tribute to this film which contains so many hats, cloche, boater, fedora, to name a few, I had my fabulous sister pose for this shot. (please note the cardboard boater!)

Hat industry in 1950

If your at all facinated about the hat industry have a look at this film 'Birth of Hat' from 1950 it looks back at the hats from Circe 1912 and shows how a hat is produced in 1950. The hat they make is very similar to the one my grandmother wears in this photo.

Snap!!

This is another Post Office photo this time of my great grandmother. She hated being called grandma and insisted on being called Mater (which actually means mother). She has been described to me as the formidable matriarch of the family and was nicknamed by her second husband 'the Duchess of Claremont' (which was the name of the suburb they lived in).

One of my great aunts once borrowed her fur (without asking) for a date and wore it while on a motor bike. It got caught in the wheel and developed some very large holes. So scared about the ramifications, she pushed it to the back of Maters wardrobe. When a few weeks later Mater found it my great aunt insisted that the moths must have got to it saying "that they have been rather large this year" and apparently she believed it!

Think pink!

"Banish the black, burn the blue, bury the beige. Think pink!" Lyrics by George and Ira Gershwin, Funny Face 1956. That is how I've been trying to think this month 'to banish the (Winter) blues away'. The movie 'Funny Face' staring Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire has a wonderful score, magical photography and clothes to die for. All of Audrey's clothes were designed by Hubert Givenchy and the rest of the cast was clothed by the costume queen Edith Head. You will be swept away in the lush brilliance of this film!

Here are some illustrations of a hat featured in the film. The illustration at the top was inspired by the film and the hat below.

Paper delight!

I recently went to the Arts Crafts and Antiques Fair at the Claremont Showgrounds. While I was there I came across some Australian Home Journal's from 1956 and 1957. The designs are just coming back into vogue (See Karen Walker in Myer and the latest catwalk collections at LV) . But the most fantastic thing is that the patterns were still enclosed!

The advertisements were also quite interesting, a mail order Camphor wood Glory Box and some rather quirky ads claiming to banish 'bad fat' with a pill (well some things never change!).

The Genie in the lamp...

Just lately I have become enamoured of turbans. I made this silver turban for a 1920's costume a few years ago. Originating from Asia and the Middle East, they became very fashionable during the 1940's, when the materials to produce hats were scarce.

All you needed was a scarf, wrap it, tie it and twist and you had a hat. I found a film just recently which showed how this was done. You can find it at http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=38179

Because of this film I have been experimenting with the turban look, but my mother thinks it makes me look like a washer woman and at times I am inclined to believe her!

One Top Hat...

When I say ‘Top Hat’ I am not just referring to the actual hat I am also referring to the 1935 film by the same name. 

Staring Fred Astair and Ginger Rogers it was the beginning of a long partnership between the two actors. This film epitomises the elegance and glamour of this age, with its dancing and singing numbers ‘Top Hat’ and ‘Isn’t this a lovely day’ (which you might recognise from a Fisher and Pikel ad a few years ago) by Irving Berlin.

‘Top Hat’ is a very light hearted comedy. However it is combination of the extravagant sets and the dance numbers that make it a film you can’t help but remember and love. On a side note Fred Astair said later that he disliked the top hat, white tie and tails, ironic since it was the top hat which made him famous!

Say cheese...

In a time long gone, passers by the Post Office in Forrest Chase (Perth) would have their photograph taken. If they liked it they could purchase it. This is one such photo, pictured is my Grandmother and my aunt. My Grandmother trimmed the hat herself.

I never knew her as she died when my mother was just 19, but by all accounts she dressed well even on a meagre sum. I also have a picture of my Great Grandmother from the Post Office photograph days. I think it is such a shame that something like this doesn't exist anymore. Even if it was used as a record of the fashions throughout each decade. Plus it would certainly make for an interesting book...

Easter Parade

Irving Berlin's Easter Parade is one of my all time favourite classic films. Staring the legendary Fred Astair and Judy Garland, it is a comic love story starting and ending with the New York 5th Ave Easter Parade. The event still exists, though in recent years numbers have waned.

The title of the film is also the title of the of the last song, with the words; "In your Easter bonnet with all the frills upon it, you'll be the grandest lady in the Easter parade"(Irving Berlin, 1948)

So in the tradition of this fabulous event, don a hat this Easter and be the envy of your friends!

Pictured is an Alannah Hill hat I bought a month ago. I just couldn't walk away!

As Mad as a Hatter

I wore my vintage Christian Dior to a Mad Hatters party, which brings up an interesting fact. The reason why the term 'as mad as a Hatter' was coined, was because the fumes from the mercuric nitrate used in the felting of fur to make hats, induced madness and eventually death.

The picture is of my Dad's copy of 'Alice in Wonderland' by Lewis Carroll, this copy was printed in 1948 by Richard Clay and Company. The Illustration is by Rene Cloke.